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Found: the outback’s best waterfalls

Some of our most beautiful waterholes are hidden away inside this under-the-radar national park.

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UTE JUNKER

Luxury Travel and Lifestyle - Writer, editor, podcaster. Co-founder, tonicmag.com.au

Ute Junker has been reporting on luxury travel and lifestyle for more than 20 years. She spends much of the year on the road and is happiest snorkelling a coral reef, tucking into a new cuisine, or enjoying an up-close encounter with wildlife.

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At Angkerle Atwatye, it’s all about timing. This At Angkerle Atwatye, it’s all about timing. This striking quartzite gorge, previously known as Standley Chasm, is lit up by the sun for just 90 minutes around midday. This gorge - which is home to fresh springs and was used as a trail by the local Arrernte people - also contains some of the most ancient rock on the planet, over two billion years old. And one more fun fact: the Standley it was named after was not an explorer but a teacher. Ida Standley was the Alice’s first teacher, and also the first white fella to see the gorge. The Arrernte showed it to her as a mark of respect for the help she gave the community, which included teaching their children.
I’ve swum in some pretty special places in my ti I’ve swum in some pretty special places in my time, but this has to be one of the most spectacular - and surprising. True, there is a number of waterholes dotted throughout the West MacDonnell Ranges near Alice Springs - but it’s also true that for much of the year, most of them don’t hold that much water. This year is different. Bumper rains have filled the waterholes to levels that most locals haven’t seen for years. Here I’m swimming at Glen Helen Gorge - a place that, last time I visited, was dry and rocky, with just a small pool of water at the far end where you could dip your feet. This time I swam past these rushes, around the corner, to the far end of the gorge, passing a couple of happy duck along the way. Bliss.
Last night the desert near Alice Springs sprang to Last night the desert near Alice Springs sprang to life with @parrtjimaaustralia, the light festival celebrating indigenous art and culture. So many dazzling displays in such a spectacular setting - they even use the West MacDonnell ranges as a backdrop, lighting it up with a kaleidoscope of imagery, all accompanied by specially-commissioned soundtracks.
So one of the most entertaining evenings I’ve ha So one of the most entertaining evenings I’ve had recently was on a Zoom call, part of the research for my story on the fabulous new Australian Underwater Discovery Centre, which will rise up out of the ocean off the Margaret River coastline late next year. I’d set up the call with @bacaarchitects and builders Subcon Blue Solutions after seeing the striking design, inspired by a breaching whale. What I thought would be a straightforward design piece turned into a deep dive into the world of marine architecture and engineering (a booming field, it turns out) and amazing new technologies that allow underwater buildings to support entire eco-systems. When I asked about building techniques, they told me, “You really need to talk with Ben” - being Ben Fitzgerald of @coremarine_norway, another Aussie setting new standards in the field. One quick email later, he joined us on the call, and things got even more interesting. You can read the resulting revelations - including the fact that this whale of a building will be floated down the coast from its construction site to its final perch in Busselton - in today’s @financialreview (link in bio).
When I first visited Nitmiluk 30-odd years ago, it When I first visited Nitmiluk 30-odd years ago, it was known as Katherine Gorge and I don’t remember hearing an awful lot about the indigenous owners, the Jawoyn people. Things are different now. A cruise along the tranquil gorge - which technically is 13 separate gorges - offers the chance to see Nitmiluk through indigenous eyes, with insights into everything from Dreamtime stories to the bush tucker traditionally gathered here, including fish, turtles, prawns and freshwater mussels. It’s a much richer experience.
Australia’s most famous train has had a makeover Australia’s most famous train has had a makeover, just in time for the Red Centre’s most colourful festival. Artist Chantelle Muladad has transformed three of The Ghan’s train carriages with her Crossroads design. Can’t wait to climb aboard and head off to Alice Springs to soak up the colour at Parrtjima Festival.

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© 2019 Ute Junker, All Rights Reserved | Site By Design Counsel

LISTEN UP

Subscribe to my podcast I Know This Place, a series about the world’s most interesting places, seen through the eyes of the people who know them best. Join me on the road as I talk with chefs, architects, historians and more about the places that are special to them.

I'M ALL EARS

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Join my absolutely zero spam email list for insider travel tips and other news.

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PRIVACY | CONTACT

© 2019 Ute Junker, All Rights Reserved | Site By Design Counsel

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